Spitting out the letter almost as if it were a fish bone, Russell Norman, between mouthfuls of salt cod and polenta, says he "tries not to the use the 'T' word". He means "tapas" and that, he says, is definitely not what Polpo, his new restaurant in London, is about. "Attaching a Spanish word to Italian food makes for an ugly hybrid," he adds. But attach it they have – queues snake in from Beak ...